PREVENTING BURNS WITH A CAR BUFFER POLISHER

Buffing or burning through your car's paint is perhaps the greatest danger in using a machine.  The risk of paint damage can be largely diminished if you follow a few simple rules.

A paint burn is caused by heat buildup on the buffing pad due to friction.  Paint burning occurs on the edges of a body panel, not in the middle.  I cannot recall seeing a buffer burn though paint in the middle of a hood, door or fender.  It is the small surface area of the buffing pad edge that builds heat quickly, making a burn possible.

To prevent burns, you need to know how the rotary buffer works.  With few exceptions, buffers rotate clockwise.  When using a buffer, lift the left side of the buffer slightly (a half inch or so).  Move the buffer in smooth left to right strokes.  It is best to focus pad contact on the 12 o'clock to the 4 o'clock quadrant (i.e., the right edge when looking at the top of the buffer).  In this way, the buffing pad will always rotate off the edge of a panel.

The reason for lifting the left side of the buffer is to prevent the trailing edge of the buffing pad from driving into a body panel edge.  The trailing edge of the pad driving into a body edge creates so much friction it can rapidly burn through the finish.  By rolling the right side of the pad off the body panel edge and lifting the left side, you can significantly reduce the risk of burning.

MORE TIPS FOR REDUCING BURN ACCIDENTS

To further reduce the risk of burning, buff up to edges and body ridges, not on them.  When buffing raised peaks or body lines, keep the buffing pad as flat as possible, and slow the buffer speed.  Keep the buffing machine moving at all times.  If you allow the buffing pad to spin in one spot for more than a few seconds, you're inviting disaster.  Other tricks include opening the door, trunk or hood slightly.  This gives you an edge to roll off of when buffing.  Always slow buffer speed when approaching an edge.

The operating speed of your buffer is very important.  I highly recommend using slower speeds.  Speeds between 1200 and 2000 rpm are sufficient on most modern finishes. The slower speeds can also be used on older finishes to achieve good results.  Just remember, slower speeds create less friction, thereby reducing the chance of burns.

CAR POLISHER SAFETY TECHNIQUES

Safety first.  Wear goggles or work glasses when buffing.  Remove all hand and wrist jewelry.

Just like polishing and waxing by hand, buff a section at a time.  Always start with the least abrasive polish you can.  Polish a section more than once if the results are not satisfactory.  If you are not getting the result you want, try a slightly more abrasive polish.  Like I said, it is unlikely that a single polish will do it all.  For example, the front of your car gets the most damage.  It may require a medium-grit polish to bring the front areas up to par, while the remainder of the car buffs up fine with a mild polish.

To properly machine polish, you will need your polish in a squeeze bottle.  Squeeze a couple of lines (6 to 9 inches) of polish on the panel you want to polish.  Pre-lubricate your buffing pad with a shot or two of water or detailing spray.  Start the machine slowly, with the pad on the panel to the right of the lines of polish.  Lift the left side of the pad slightly, and slowly move into the polish.  The rotating pad will pull the polish in and begin distributing it on the paint.

If you're new to machine polishing, apply your polish to the buffing pad, not the surface of the car. And if you're brand new to machine polishing, don't worry.  Start learning by applying a single line of polish around the edge of the buffing pad (as shown above).  Don't use too much polish, or it will splatter everywhere and take too long to buff out.  The amount I have applied here will be enough to buff a complete fender on a small car.  Before starting the polisher or rotary buffer, lay the pad on the paint surface to be worked and spread the polish around.

Once the polish is distributed over the area you're working on, you can begin to increase speed a bit.  If you're using a rotary buffer, do not run above 1500 to 1800 rpm.  If you're using a Porter Cable 7424 dual-action buffer, there's no reason to run the machine higher than 4.5.  Work the polish in well, using overlapping left-to-right and top-to-bottom passes.  There's no need to rush, but remember to keep the pad moving.

As the polish begins to "buff out," and the shine on the paint begins to come up, the polish and buffer have done their work.  Don't keep buffing the dry panel.  It's no longer productive, and you risk burning the paint.  If you're not happy with the results, add more polish and keep going.  Remember to stay off the edges!

When working on top panels like the hood, trunk or top, you can keep the electrical cord from rubbing on your freshly polished paint by draping it over your shoulder.  It's also best to remove your belt or anything else you might be wearing that would damage your paint.

Be sure to check your buffing pad periodically, as it will become caked with polish.  Use a pad spur to clean it.  Lay the buffer across the top of your leg and turn the machine on.  Gently press the pad spur into the pad, starting at the outer edge, and run it into the center.  Foam pads can be cleaned with soap and water for end-of-day cleanup.  Allow pads to drip dry.

Machine polishing is messy.  The polish will fling off about 6 feet or so.  You can prevent the splatter mess on your car by using an old sheet.  Simply cover the area of the car you're not working on.  Cover the things in your garage you don't want splattered, too.